Best of the Adriatic
September 2014
Mostar
Wednesday, September 17th
66° - 82°F, Sunny
Wednesday, September 17th
66° - 82°F, Sunny
Time to leave Croatia and head inland to Bosnia. Took a short ferry ride from Korčula to the mainland then after a pleasant drive along the coast headed East for Mostar.
Bosnia only has a 5 mile footprint on the coast. As we drove up the coast we had to show our passports to enter Bosnia, then again to enter Croatia and finally again to re-enter Bosnia.
Bosnia only has a 5 mile footprint on the coast. As we drove up the coast we had to show our passports to enter Bosnia, then again to enter Croatia and finally again to re-enter Bosnia.
We stopped in Ston for coffee and then in Počitelj for lunch
My first experience with Bosnian coffee. It is made by pouring hot water over the grounds and letting it steep. Then you sip coffee from the surface. It's a little crunchy when you get to the bottom of the cup but it will wake you up. And I was hoping to sleep on the bus.
Barbara's checking out the scarfs.
Why do I feel like I will need to find more room in MY suitcase.
Why do I feel like I will need to find more room in MY suitcase.
As we get closer to Mostar we see buildings with lots of bullet holes. Then more and more bombed out buildings. We check into our hotel room, opened the window and this is what I saw staring me in the face.
Here's the story. You can skip this part if not interested. The story is really heartbreaking.
In 1989 the Berlin Wall came down and one by one the Eastern Block countries started to break off and become independent, starting with Slovenia in 1990. In the fall of 1991 Bosnia started to pursue independence. This was complicated by the fact that the Muslim population (43%) and Catholic Croats (17%) were supporters but the Serb population (31%) resisted because they wanted to remain part of the dominant ethic group in Yugoslavia. In 1992 the Serbs started a war with the intent of killing all the Muslims and Croats so they could have Bosnia to themselves. From 1993 to 1995 the Serbs killed thousands of men, woman, and children indiscriminately. The town of Mostar was destroyed in a siege of terror. The Serbs were secretly warned to get out of town, then for 3 months snippers on the surrounding hills shot at the remaining inhabitants. The citizens could only venture out at night. In 1995, the US brought the 3 factions together which resulted in the Dayton (as in Ohio where the accord was signed) agreement which ended the war and created two republics, one Serb and one Muslin/Croats within Bosnia. The Serbs were kicked out of the Muslin republic and the Muslins out of the Serb area. So the fighting has been suspended but the war goes on and will likely rekindle some day.
Mostar is a nice little river town that yearns to return to the happy days when all 3 religions got along. They are struggling with 40% unemployment. They are making progress in rebuilding their town. But there are signs of war everywhere.
In 1989 the Berlin Wall came down and one by one the Eastern Block countries started to break off and become independent, starting with Slovenia in 1990. In the fall of 1991 Bosnia started to pursue independence. This was complicated by the fact that the Muslim population (43%) and Catholic Croats (17%) were supporters but the Serb population (31%) resisted because they wanted to remain part of the dominant ethic group in Yugoslavia. In 1992 the Serbs started a war with the intent of killing all the Muslims and Croats so they could have Bosnia to themselves. From 1993 to 1995 the Serbs killed thousands of men, woman, and children indiscriminately. The town of Mostar was destroyed in a siege of terror. The Serbs were secretly warned to get out of town, then for 3 months snippers on the surrounding hills shot at the remaining inhabitants. The citizens could only venture out at night. In 1995, the US brought the 3 factions together which resulted in the Dayton (as in Ohio where the accord was signed) agreement which ended the war and created two republics, one Serb and one Muslin/Croats within Bosnia. The Serbs were kicked out of the Muslin republic and the Muslins out of the Serb area. So the fighting has been suspended but the war goes on and will likely rekindle some day.
Mostar is a nice little river town that yearns to return to the happy days when all 3 religions got along. They are struggling with 40% unemployment. They are making progress in rebuilding their town. But there are signs of war everywhere.
This bridge was built in the 16th century to connect two parts of the city. It was destroyed in1993 by Serb forces during the Croat–Bosniak War. It was rebuilt in 2004 using the same materials and techniques as the original. It has become the center of the new tourist economy. The cross on the hill in the background marks the location of the Serb snipers.